How to build a ceramic breeze block fence

1. Design and choice of blocks

For a fence, only choose breeze blocks whose manufacturer declares frost resistance. On our website they are labelled Outdoor / Indoor. We explain why this matters in the article Frost resistance of ceramics.

Match the span of the panels between piers to the block size so you avoid cutting blocks. With a 20 × 20 cm format and a joint of about 1 cm, the module comes to roughly 21 cm. We state the quantity per m² for every model: for example Andalúzia CC 1 needs 23 pcs per m², the Morava 1 fence block 25 pcs.

2. Foundation

A masonry fence needs a concrete strip foundation. Its depth and width are set by the designer according to the subsoil and the height of the fence. A plinth wall is built on the foundation to keep the blocks above ground level and away from splashing water.

A horizontal damp-proof course against rising damp is recommended between the plinth wall and the first course of blocks.

3. Piers

Piers carry the fence and divide it into panels. They are most often built from hollow formwork blocks or bricks, then reinforced and filled with concrete. The spacing of the piers, their cross-section and reinforcement depend on the height of the fence and the wind load, so they should be designed by a structural engineer. For a taller fence or a fence on a slope, this assessment is essential.

4. Mortar and laying

Ceramic breeze blocks are laid in mortar, not dry. Use a masonry mortar suitable for outdoor use, and if you want a coloured joint, test the shade on a few blocks first. Lay at temperatures above +5 °C and protect fresh masonry from rain and direct sun.

Briefly dampen absorbent terracotta blocks before laying so they do not draw water out of the mortar too quickly. Remove excess mortar from the face immediately, before it hardens, otherwise it will leave stains on the fired clay.

• Set up a string line and lay course by course from pier to pier.
• Check each course with a spirit level, both plumb and level.
• Place masonry reinforcement in the bed joints as designed by the structural engineer, usually at regular intervals up the height of the fence, and anchor it into the piers.
• Finish and point the joints so that water runs off outwards and does not sit in the openings.

5. Fence top and protection from water

The most exposed part of a fence is its top. On the last course of blocks, fit coping slabs or caps with an overhang and a drip groove so that rainwater does not run down the face or seep into the joints. The same applies to the pier caps.

With the original Morava 1 and Morava 2 fence blocks you can continue an old fence. Before adding blocks, check that the original foundation and piers are in good condition.

6. Maintenance

Fired clay needs no paint. Simply rinse the fence with water from time to time and check the joints and coping slabs. We only recommend sealing where it makes sense, for example for absorbent terracotta in exposed spots.

If you are planning a fence, see the overview of suitable models and prices or send us the length and height of the fence.